The puppy is getting his daily dose of exercise, and to him there is nothing wrong with his leading the way, because he has not been taught to do otherwise. What the owners have unintentionally taught young Fido is that he leads and the family follows.

This is a big mistake that Fido’s owners have made. They think that they are giving Fido freedom to explore and build his confidence, but there is no sense of leadership being exerted by the owners.

Many people don’t realize that leash walking is one of the most important training tool that will instill your leadership position with your puppy. If you don’t instill leadership and your dominance when they are puppies, you will have 10 times the trouble instilling it when they are adolescents – when they are stronger and faster.

Give Fido plenty of off leash time in safe environments after he has done the work for you by walking respectfully on leash. You will develop a dog who will be more confident and obedient in the long run.

Training a puppy is often considerably easier than training an adult or adolescent dog. One reason is that the puppy is essentially a “blank slate”, untroubled by past training techniques and other issues. Another more indirect reason is that you are probably more likely to spend more time and have greater patience with your new puppy than you would after the “novelty” has worn off somewhat. And it tends to be human nature to have greater patience with young (dogs and people), since we know that they’re inexperienced in life and they’re usually eager to learn.

In other ways, however, the puppy can be a little more difficult to train than an older dog. One challenge to training a new puppy is that puppies are more easily distractable than older dogs. Everything is new to a puppy, and every new experience provides a new chance for distraction. For this reason, it is best to keep training sessions short when working with a puppy, and to end each training sessions on a positive note.

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Some medical problems may cause growling or barking and older pets experiencing senile changes may have barking problems. Intense and continuous barking may be considered compulsive. Check with your veterinarian to evaluate your pet’s barking or growling problem. Behavior training and drug therapy may be helpful in reducing barking for pets with medical, geriatric and compulsive disorders.

Socialize Your Puppy Acclimate your puppy to a variety of different people, environments, situations and noises to help lessen anxiety as your puppy grows. Make sure your puppy spends time alone so that he doesn’t develop separation anxiety while you are away from him . Proper training is essential to preventing behavior problems, such as growling and barking. Ask you veterinarian for more information about puppy training and see .

Correcting a Barking or Growling Problem Correcting a barking or growling problem first requires that you have effective management of your dog. Once you have achieved this, you can begin to train your dog to lessen his barking or growling behavior by using rewards for quiet behavior. The reward should be something that the dog really likes such as a favorite treat, tummy rubs, or a favorite toy. Punishment is generally ineffective in correcting barking problems. Too much punishment may even exacerbate the behavior and cause the dog to be fearful or aggressive.

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The experience of the dog trainer.  Anyone can provide dog training tips online, but that doesn’t mean they will work.  The same is true with creating instructional guides.  Don’t take advice from just anyone.  Look for a dog training DVD that is produced by or stars a dog training expert.  Even if you don’t recognize the name, you should be able to review a short list of their training and credentials.

Helpful tips for pet owners.  A dog training DVD is designed to show dog owners how to train their pets at home.  This is often done through example.  A dog trainer will use a dog to showcase common training methods and steps.  This is good, but be sure the DVD provides you with additional information too.  Don’t just walk through the movements.  Get information on how to talk to your dog during the process, how to reward them for good behavior, and so forth.

Ratings and reviews.  A simple search on Amazon.com shows almost 200 dog training DVDs.  Although they all share the common goal, that goal is reached through different methods.  Some will work better than others.  Don’t just choose any dog training DVD, but one that has worked for other pet owners.  The best way to do this is by reading ratings and reviews online.

Price. When buying a dog training DVD, don’t just focus on the lowest price.  As previously stated, you want a quality video hosted by an experienced trainer, one that provides instruction and helpful tips, as well as a DVD with good ratings and reviews.  Find that DVD and then price compare online.  Which retailer offers you the best price?  Take it.

Highlighted above were just a few of the factors you should consider when buying a dog training DVD.  The use of a training video is much cheaper than a private, one-on-one dog trainer.  Still, don’t choose the first training video you find online or come across the in the video store.  Consider the factors outlined above and you will get a dog training DVD that will truly work.

It is important to concentrate on the way the collar fits the dog. It is critical that the training collar be correctly fitted to the dog. A correctly fitted training collar is simpler to use and safer for the dog. A training collar should be used as a sharp reminder to the dog, not as punishment. It’s vital that unceasing pressure be evaded when using a training collar.

Concentrate on the weight of the chain and the dimensions of the links on the training collar. It is vital the weight and size of the chain be suitable to the size and weight of the dog. Determining if the training collar is the proper size is comparatively simple.

It’s vital that the training collar not fit too firmly, but it shouldn’t be too loose either.

A training collar that is too tight will be too hard to put on and off. On the other hand, a training collar that is too loose can incidentally fall off the dog’s head when it lowers its head. It’s also critical to grasp that a training collar that is too long for the dog needs a large amount of refinement to use correctly. A collar that is way too long can still be used, but it will need more talent on the part of the handler.

It is best to determine the dog’s neck with a tape measure, then add two to three inches to that measurement. So if your dog has a neck 12″ in diameter, you would need to buy a training collar that is 14″ in length. Chain slip collars are typically sized in 2 inch increments. When fitting a training collar, the loop of the chain which is attached to the leash should be on the head of the dog’s neck. This guarantees the collar releases the instant the leash is loosened. If the loop of the training collar that is attached to the leash isn’t on the head of the dog’s neck, the collar can still be tightened comparatively simply, but it won’t release back to a loose state as fast.

The more continual pressure on the dog’s neck which results, initiates a counter reply on the part of the animal, and your dog will then react by pulling and straining against the leash. Eventually , it is vital to use a training collar that is well made and robust. If the worst occurs, and your dog’s training collar does break, it’s critical not to panic. Most dogs will be not aware that they have damaged the collar, at least for some seconds. Often , if you act as if the leash is still connected, you can generally recover control of your dog maybe even before the dog realizes he is free.

The benefits are not all aimed at the dog owner, the well trained dog will hugely benefit from being trained, and you will see this in his behavior towards you, and his overall disposition. Dogs like to be aware of what their routine is. They are followers and need direction, and if you can give this to them, you and your pet will enjoy a lifetime of happiness together.

To often dog owners are unknowingly trained by their dog instead of the other way around. Allowing your dog to dictate certain aspects of your daily routine is their way of exerting dominance on you. Your dog exerting dominance towards you, is allowing for the possibility for future confrontations that could lead to anything from your dog biting you to you giving your dog away. The simple act of refraining to remove a dog’s toy because he growls at you is a pure sign of your submission. Your dog must understand that all possessions are yours and not theirs and you will decide when he can and can not have them.

There are only three steps to teach these behaviors and they are extremely simple.

Step 1. Say the command Sit. (Tone is very important here, you must use the same tone every time you give this command. Dogs hear tone and stress in your voice and that is what they respond to.)

Step 2. After you have given the command you must now physically coach the dog into the proper position.

Step 3. After your dog begins to understand what you are asking him to do it will become easier and you may begin some sort of reward, you may begin the reward earlier if you wish, but it once he realizes there is a snack involved he will become much more accepting of his new “tricks”. Now you simply repeat at least every other day for about thirty minutes.

Now how does this help you curtail the begging behavior of your dog? When the behavior occurs you simply give the command of your choice. Over the period of just a few weeks the begging will stop and be replaced with either sitting or lying down. A dog will perform a behavior that gets results and if you only react when the dog sits they will learn that behavior. Simple.

Failure to understand your dog’s behaviour and how to properly train your dog is the cause of dissatisfaction with their dog.  Some people will even give up on their dogs and could even abandon them in some instances.  All because they failed to properly communicate and undersrtand their dog.  What a terrible tragedy!

Actually, your dog really does communicate with you for much of the time you spend together.  So not learning to understand your dog’s body language is similar to living your life with someone who speaks another language, and never learning to communicate with that person by learning any of that other language.

Two way communication with anyone in your life is obviously important, and especially with your dog who does “speak another language”.

Dogs love to play, but their primary concern is often their position in your “pack”.  Dogs will always make attempts to get to the top dog position if you allow this to go on.

Some dogs do this as a game to see how much they can get away with, (my Kara is like this).  Other dogs can actually take this issue very seriously, and may threaten any “pack” member who doesn’t defer to them – sometimes even including their owner.  Large dogs often like to jump up and stand with their front paws on the owner’s shoulders. This can be a friendly gesture,  but is often actually a posture of dominance.

A better greeting to encourage your dog to use is to have your dog sit and then for you offer a greeting to your dog. In this way, the dog has assumed a subordinate posture, and you retains your leadership role and your position as the “top dog”.  And your dog loves this exchange with you.  The important thing is that your dog understands his/her position in the “pack”.

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Dogs are instinctively clean animals. If they can avoid it, they would rather not soil themselves or their usual eating and sleeping areas. Dogs also naturally develop habits of where they would like to eliminate. For example, dogs that have a habit of eliminating on grass or dirt would rather not eliminate on concrete or gravel. You can use these natural tendencies for rapid and successful house training.
Establish Your Dog’s Living Area
There are two things you can do to set your dog up for successful house training. First, establish your dog’s living area (we will call it ‘den’ from here out) in a small confined space such as a bathroom, part of the kitchen or garage. Please note that a den is not a crate. Read about crate training for more information on this. Try to spend as much time as possible with your dog in her den. It is important to play with her in this area as well as let her eat and sleep here. Give your dog a special bed; this can be anything from an open crate to a large cardboard box to a beach towel. In the beginning, she may eliminate in here but once she realizes that this is her special den, she will try to avoid soiling it.

Once your dog gets used to sleeping on her very own bed, you can move it around your house from room to room, where ever you go. Confine your dog to her bed when ever you are somewhere other than her den. If her bed is a crate, simply close the door. If her bed is a towel or blanket, place it next to a piece of furniture and leash your dog so she can’t get out of her bed.

Since you should never leave your dog unattended while leashed, it’s an even better idea to leash your dog to yourself! Tie one end of the leash around your waist or belt loop. Now your dog can accompany you around your home and you can monitor her behavior.

Establish the Toilet Area
Second, establish your dog’s toilet area. Every time your dog needs to eliminate be sure she has access to this place. Until she develops a strong habit of eliminating here, it is important that you accompany her every time. If she eliminates some where else, then she’ll be establishing a habit of eliminating there.

To make things easier on both yourself and your dog, you should put your dog on a regular feeding schedule. What goes in on a regular schedule will come out on a regular schedule. If you know when your dog needs to empty out, then you’ll know when to take her to her toilet area. Healthy adult dogs should be able to control their bladder and bowels for eight hours.

It’s important that you do not confine your dog without access to her toilet area for too long. If she can’t hold it, she will be forced to soil herself, her bed or her den. If this happens, it may become a habit and will take much longer to housetrain her.

House Training: Bringing It All Together
Once your dog consistently eliminates in her toilet area and stops soiling her den, then you can start extending her den to the rest of your house. Begin by giving her access to one room at a time, but only when you know without a doubt that her bladder and bowels are completely empty. Let her eat, sleep and play in this room but only when she can be supervised. When you cannot supervise her, either confine her to her bed in that room, or put her back in her den. Once she accepts this room as an extension of her den, then go on to the next room.

Speeding Up the Natural House Training Process
If you follow the instructions so far, your dog will be house trained in due time. One way to speed up the process is to praise and reward your dog each and every time she eliminates in her toilet area. It is equally as important not to reprimand your dog for accidents and mistakes. Reprimand usually confuses the dog and slows down the house training process.

House Training Problems
* If your dog continues to soil her den, either you have left her there too long or the den may be too large an area for her. Take her to her toilet area more frequently or establish her den in an even smaller area.

* If she soils her bed, then you probably confined her there too long and she couldn’t help herself; or she doesn’t understand yet that this is her bed. Urinary tract problems and medical conditions can also cause your dog to soil her bed while she is sleeping.

* Some dogs drink excessive amounts of water out of boredom or habit and therefore have to urinate too frequently. If this is your dog, limit her water, take her to her toilet area more frequently and give her activities to do so she isn’t bored.

* If the den is not properly introduced, your dog may feel as if it is a prison and show signs of anxiety, barking, chewing, whining, etc. Make sure your dog enjoys being in her den.

URINE MARKING

Dogs have a way to declare ownership in a territory and one way is to mark the area with urine. By nature, a male dog especially will sniff out where other dogs have been and place their claim to that territory. This is mostly a male trait, although some females will mark. It’s like leaving a calling card.

This is not a behavior to be too concerned about unless it begins to happen indoors. The dog is trying to establish dominance and this pattern has to be broken. Don’t ignore the behavior because it will happen again. Consider using disposable diapers on the dog if it is a constant problem. Another option is training pads for puppies and for adult dogs.

Neutering your male dog will most likely decrease his urge to mark territory by urinating. Since he will become naturally less aggressive, his attention will turn from hormonal activities to his family for love and attention. He will be less interested in showing his masculinity to other males.

If there is no medical reason for uncontrolled urinating in the house, make sure you take the following steps:

* Take the dog on regular walks, especially in the morning or after eating so he or she can relieve themselves at regular times.
* Give your dog lots of playtime and exercise to alleviate some of the aggressiveness of the marking behavior.
* If you catch the dog in the act, make a loud noise, or say “No!” sharply to let him know that is unacceptable behavior. Take the dog outside immediately to let him finish his business.
* Do not yell at him, strike or show anger. Simply say your command and place him where he can urinate.
* Watch the dog when you take him outside and see if he does his business. If he is distracted and does not go, be aware of his activities in the house and be prepared to make a loud noise to keep him from following through. Take him outside again at that time.
* Watch for signs such as whining, circling, pawing or other repetitive behaviors that may signal your dogs’ need to go potty.
* Repeat these behaviors as you need to and eventually your dog will understand that marking territory in the house is not acceptable.

EATING FECES

Although no one really wants to talk about, there are dogs out there that like to not only roll in feces, but sometimes eat it as well. It can be a habit that is difficult to break. The awful thing is he can eat it up, then run to you and give you a kiss! This is a very nasty habit that needs a bit of understanding.

A couple reasons your dog may like this dung delicacy is that there is a nutritional deficiency that isn’t met by your dog’s normal daily food intake. You vet can help determine if this is a cause. Some dogs simply watch other dogs do this and copy that behavior. Certain other dogs, such as Retrievers are just programmed to “retrieve” or pick things up in their mouths.

Try to teach your dog with a stern command to “leave it” if you are with him when he picks up feces. Pull back on his collar and pull him away from the source of intrigue. In your own yard, make sure everything is cleaned up after your dog’s toilet time. If it’s not there, it won’t be a temptation.

If there is persistent behavior from your dog, try a pet repellent, such as Indoor Bitter End . Meat tenderizer will create a nasty taste your dog won’t like and can deter him from eating feces.

Take time to monitor your dog if he has this habit. The less the feces are available to him, the less he will have the opportunity to make a meal of it.

GUARDING FOOD

Just like some dogs guard their toys, many dogs guard their food or even empty food bowls. Food can bring out the possessiveness in a dog more than anything else. Your dog may h have memories of leaner times and wants to make sure no other dog or human is going to take his share. Some dogs can even get aggressive while guarding their food or they will inhale it to make sure it isn’t going to go to anyone else!

Dogs that guard their empty food bowls may simply be hungry and wait for food to show in the bowl. They are protecting the territory around the bowl as well. This has to do with what is called a “denning” instinct. A den could have been an abandoned shed or a cave used by dogs in the wild. They protected their space at all costs.

Dogs that live with other dogs may see them competition to their meals so guarding the food bowl becomes a survival tool. Just watch for competitive behavior that could turn aggressive. This should not be tolerated.

If you know your dog is getting enough food but simply seems to enjoy the process of guarding his empty or partially full bowl, you need to take steps to deal with this issue. If he doesn’t have any competition around him, there may not be much of a problem. However, if growling is occurring, then steps need to be taken to modify this behavior.

* Try placing the dog bowl in the middle of a large room. Part of the guarding instinct is trying to protect the space around the bowl. There is more security for the dog in a small, confined space. The middle of the room with big, open spaces is very difficult to protect. This action alone could deter him from this guarding principle.
* Play musical bowls: Move his bowl to different areas of the room. He won’t the same space to guard it if it is moved around frequently. There will be more attachment placed on the food in the bowl rather than the bowl itself.
* Take the bowl away. Let your dog eat his food, and then pick up the bowl. Out of sight, out of mind. He will be more interested in eating the food when it is placed in front of him rather than dealing with protecting a bowl.
* Change his perspective. Tell your dog to sit, rollover, lie down or come and then feed him, the association will begin to be one of “payment” before eating. The dog will begin to understand that when he obeys, he will be rewarded with a meal at feeding time.
* Try dropping a small treat in your dog’s bowl when he is eating. He will begin to see you as someone who is caring for him rather than competing. Your dog will begin to get excited to see you coming towards his bowl if he knows a treat is coming as well. This is a good “quick fix” to the problem as you find other ways to work with your food guarding dog.