URINE MARKING

Dogs have a way to declare ownership in a territory and one way is to mark the area with urine. By nature, a male dog especially will sniff out where other dogs have been and place their claim to that territory. This is mostly a male trait, although some females will mark. It’s like leaving a calling card.

This is not a behavior to be too concerned about unless it begins to happen indoors. The dog is trying to establish dominance and this pattern has to be broken. Don’t ignore the behavior because it will happen again. Consider using disposable diapers on the dog if it is a constant problem. Another option is training pads for puppies and for adult dogs.

Neutering your male dog will most likely decrease his urge to mark territory by urinating. Since he will become naturally less aggressive, his attention will turn from hormonal activities to his family for love and attention. He will be less interested in showing his masculinity to other males.

If there is no medical reason for uncontrolled urinating in the house, make sure you take the following steps:

* Take the dog on regular walks, especially in the morning or after eating so he or she can relieve themselves at regular times.
* Give your dog lots of playtime and exercise to alleviate some of the aggressiveness of the marking behavior.
* If you catch the dog in the act, make a loud noise, or say “No!” sharply to let him know that is unacceptable behavior. Take the dog outside immediately to let him finish his business.
* Do not yell at him, strike or show anger. Simply say your command and place him where he can urinate.
* Watch the dog when you take him outside and see if he does his business. If he is distracted and does not go, be aware of his activities in the house and be prepared to make a loud noise to keep him from following through. Take him outside again at that time.
* Watch for signs such as whining, circling, pawing or other repetitive behaviors that may signal your dogs’ need to go potty.
* Repeat these behaviors as you need to and eventually your dog will understand that marking territory in the house is not acceptable.

EATING FECES

Although no one really wants to talk about, there are dogs out there that like to not only roll in feces, but sometimes eat it as well. It can be a habit that is difficult to break. The awful thing is he can eat it up, then run to you and give you a kiss! This is a very nasty habit that needs a bit of understanding.

A couple reasons your dog may like this dung delicacy is that there is a nutritional deficiency that isn’t met by your dog’s normal daily food intake. You vet can help determine if this is a cause. Some dogs simply watch other dogs do this and copy that behavior. Certain other dogs, such as Retrievers are just programmed to “retrieve” or pick things up in their mouths.

Try to teach your dog with a stern command to “leave it” if you are with him when he picks up feces. Pull back on his collar and pull him away from the source of intrigue. In your own yard, make sure everything is cleaned up after your dog’s toilet time. If it’s not there, it won’t be a temptation.

If there is persistent behavior from your dog, try a pet repellent, such as Indoor Bitter End . Meat tenderizer will create a nasty taste your dog won’t like and can deter him from eating feces.

Take time to monitor your dog if he has this habit. The less the feces are available to him, the less he will have the opportunity to make a meal of it.

GUARDING FOOD

Just like some dogs guard their toys, many dogs guard their food or even empty food bowls. Food can bring out the possessiveness in a dog more than anything else. Your dog may h have memories of leaner times and wants to make sure no other dog or human is going to take his share. Some dogs can even get aggressive while guarding their food or they will inhale it to make sure it isn’t going to go to anyone else!

Dogs that guard their empty food bowls may simply be hungry and wait for food to show in the bowl. They are protecting the territory around the bowl as well. This has to do with what is called a “denning” instinct. A den could have been an abandoned shed or a cave used by dogs in the wild. They protected their space at all costs.

Dogs that live with other dogs may see them competition to their meals so guarding the food bowl becomes a survival tool. Just watch for competitive behavior that could turn aggressive. This should not be tolerated.

If you know your dog is getting enough food but simply seems to enjoy the process of guarding his empty or partially full bowl, you need to take steps to deal with this issue. If he doesn’t have any competition around him, there may not be much of a problem. However, if growling is occurring, then steps need to be taken to modify this behavior.

* Try placing the dog bowl in the middle of a large room. Part of the guarding instinct is trying to protect the space around the bowl. There is more security for the dog in a small, confined space. The middle of the room with big, open spaces is very difficult to protect. This action alone could deter him from this guarding principle.
* Play musical bowls: Move his bowl to different areas of the room. He won’t the same space to guard it if it is moved around frequently. There will be more attachment placed on the food in the bowl rather than the bowl itself.
* Take the bowl away. Let your dog eat his food, and then pick up the bowl. Out of sight, out of mind. He will be more interested in eating the food when it is placed in front of him rather than dealing with protecting a bowl.
* Change his perspective. Tell your dog to sit, rollover, lie down or come and then feed him, the association will begin to be one of “payment” before eating. The dog will begin to understand that when he obeys, he will be rewarded with a meal at feeding time.
* Try dropping a small treat in your dog’s bowl when he is eating. He will begin to see you as someone who is caring for him rather than competing. Your dog will begin to get excited to see you coming towards his bowl if he knows a treat is coming as well. This is a good “quick fix” to the problem as you find other ways to work with your food guarding dog.